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SERVICE ENGINEERS (contact numbers)
| ENGIN EERS:(Database search) | VIDEO PAGE: | USER MANUALS:| OTHER LINKS | (Additional sites) ERROR CODES: | (1000 + code definitions) |
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Washing Machine |
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The problem here is the pressure switch is not operating, this can have a number of causes, either the switch is faulty, there is a hole in the pressure pipe or it has come off, or the most common reason is the pressure chamber is blocked. To check the switch you have to blow into it and listen for one or more clicks, if you hear them it's fine, a close inspection of the hose should tell if it is OK or not, whereas the chamber has to be removed and washed out to clear it. If it was screwed on then it will go back in the same position but if it was held on by a clip or glued in place then make a note of the hoses location because if it were put back wrongly positioned you could have more water in the drum than needed resulting in a flood. |
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For the machine to keep filling it would indicate that there is a siphoning problem. Check the outlet hose is not running along the ground, it has to rise up then loop back down or the water will just run straight down the drain. If the problem only happens after the first pump out it would indicate the end of the outlet hose is lower than the drum or there is no air break around the outlet hose. (The stand pipe should be larger in diameter than the hose from the machine). |
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Unless you have a cold fill only machine, the powder is washed down by hot water, so if it is not, then the hot valve is not working. The hot water pipes tend to kink after a time and this prevents water from passing, or it could be scale from the hot tank clogging the filter in the solenoid (this occurs if work has been done on the plumbing recently), the other possibility is the solenoid valve could be faulty. |
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Check the heater connections or thermostat also the connections on the timer, (here you are looking for a burnt out terminal or wire). The machine would have stopped in heat pause, and is waiting for the water to reach the correct temperature before advancing on. If you have an 'Economy' button on your machine, you could find that by pressing that the machine carries on working OK. On some Machines the Economy button cuts out the heater. However this will not work if there is a terminal fault on the timer. |
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This happens when the thermistor goes open circuit. Check for broken wires on or connecting to the thermistor, if they are all OK then replace the thermistor. |
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If the motor is not turning at all, the obvious culprits are the motor brushes, but if these are OK and it has a spin module with two wires on the top marked F & N you could try shorting these out, if it is the module the motor will go into fast spin straight away so be aware( this procedure should only be attempted by a competent engineer ). If there is no spin module check the wires in the motor plug these are notorious for breaking internally so give each one a tug. The older Hotpoint models had a motor choke with a pink and gray wire connecting it to the motor; if you have one of these the pink wire is normally the culprit. The timer can cause problems of this type, check for burnt connections or of course it could be the motor itself. |
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My Machine won't rinse |
If the machine stops on the rinse cycle every time it would indicate that the cold valve is faulty or your cold water supply is not getting through to the machine. Check the cold tap and hose first by turning off the tap and disconnecting the hose from the machine, hold it over the sink or bucket and turn the tap on just a fraction to start with to see if water is getting through, if it is then open it up a bit more to make sure it is flowing freely, if that is OK then replace it and check the solenoid on the valve. If you have a double valve i.e. a valve with two solenoids on, the easiest way to test is to change them over or at least the wiring connections, one of the two wires is common to both so just change the other wire from each, put the machine on a rinse cycle to test it , this will tell you if it is the solenoid or not, it is not a repair, you will need a new valve or at least a new solenoid. Make sure the power to the machine is turned off before attempting any repair. |
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If the machine is full of water and you can hear the pump running then there is a blockage, either in the sump or the outlet hose. Some machines are fitted with a door lock that prevents you from opening the door when there is water present, so the hose from the switch to the pressure chamber has to be disconnected, others just require the power to be switched off (from the wall socket) with this type of interlock you may have to wait a few minutes for the lock to disengage. If the water in the drum is below the door level you would be safe to open it, if not you may have to tilt the machine backwards until it is. Now with the door open you can bail it out, then proceed to locate and rectify the blockage |
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There is an item of clothing wedged between the inner and outer drum, possibly a handkerchief. The easiest way to get at it would be by removing the heater, although this could also be the most costly, if you can't replace it you will need a new one. So the safest way would be through either the front or back plate, unless you are unlucky and have a machine were the tub splits in the center. |
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The most common cause for this is the pressure chamber being blocked, or the pressure switch not resetting, either way the machine thinks it still has water in it and will not spin. An easy way to check is to remove the hose connected to the pressure switch and listen for a click, this will happen the instant the hose is removed so be aware, if you hear a click it means the switch has reset so the chamber is blocked but if there is no sound then either you missed it or the switch is at fault. To test the switch you may have to remove it because you will need to blow into it and listen for one or more clicks as the different levels set. Be aware that some of the older machines have multi level switches, whilst the newer ones only have a single level. |
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The problem is the Tacho Generator on the motor is faulty or come off, some times the screw holding it on has just come undone and it has fallen off or the outer casing has come adrift. |
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A scrapping noise when the drum rotates is more often than not caused by a bra wire coming adrift and locating itself under the heater, sometimes if you are lucky it will not have got that far and will be protruding through one of the holes in the drum, but if it can't be seen, either the heater has to come out or access gained to the inside of the container through whichever rout is applicable i.e. front or back plate. |
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If the machine sounds normal on the wash but starts to get very loud when it comes to the spin, the chances are one of the balance weights are loose, the normal one to come loose is the top but if this is tight then check the other one which is either on the front of the drum or underneath it, it only has to move a few centimeters and this will cause it to sound excessively noisy. If both balance weights are OK open the door and try moving the inner drum up and down, there is a certain amount of movement but not much. If you are not sure remove the lid and watch the pulley as you lift the drum, if it moves outward, then it is possibly the aluminum bearing housing in the drum that has worn, (this only really happens when you have previously had the bearings changed. They go before the housing). If this is the case you will need a new container. |
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Hotpoint/Creda |
This is another case of the machine jumping out of its suspension. There are a number of reasons why this would happen but only one cause, ( The machine went into spin with an unbalanced load). Once you have replaced the container in its suspension check the motor or tacho and possibly the timer ( any of these would cause the motor to go into premature spin) |
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This type of electrical feedback is caused by not having a good earth on your washing machine, which can be caused by a faulty connection at the 13amp plug, on the machine or from your main supply box. If all the connections appear good then you may have a broken wire and would need to do a continuity test on the earth circuit to locate it. It would also be worth checking that the plug is wired correctly as well. Should all the tests prove positive then you have an earth fault in your domestic supply and for this it would be advisable to call in an electrician. |
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The most obvious reason that clothing gets torn is if the drum is over loaded or there are sharp objects in evidence such as zips or metal attachments to garments. Once these have been ruled out check for any sharp edges inside the drum, you may have to run your hand over the inside of the drum to feel for them because they will not always be obvious or very prominent (these catches or tears in the drum are caused by metallic objects such as coins ect getting between the inner and outer drum and hitting against it at a very high speed) this same scenario could also produce a leek in the container. The inner drums are made up from 3 separate pieces of metal; the back the front and the bit that wraps around and forms the cylinder. All these parts are spot welded together and under pressure these welds have been known to open out, so if you push down inside the drum at or close to the seams, if there is a broken weld the joint will open. Also look out for any tiny remnant of material that may still be lodged in any of the joints. Some washing machines have plastic lifters fitted which are also prone to becoming loose. Clothing (especially fine fabric) can get snagged under these lifters. Finding the cause could be the easy part, repairing it may be somewhat harder. If you do have a drum fault and don't feel confident about replacing it call out an engineer, at least you will know what needs replacing. If your machine is a Hotpoint WM or WMA washing machine then you can buy a repair manual from this site that will give step by step instructions on removing and refitting an inner drum. Unfortunately some of the newer machines have welded outer drums which mean they cannot be repaired and a complete new container and inner drum assembly is required. |
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It could be the pressure chamber is blocked, if so you will probably notice more water in the machine and the cloths coming out wetter than usual. Removing the pipe from the pressure switch and blowing down it may resolve the problem for a few washes but the chamber will need to be removed and cleaned properly for a lasting solution. |
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Hotpoint/Creda |
If the container appears to be lopsided when looked at through the door opening, it could be that it has either jumped out of one of the suspension units or one of the suspension rods have snapped, to confirm this remove the lid and if the container is laying to one side then that is what has happened. The easiest way to replace them is to lay the machine on its side, being careful not to damage the timer or any modules that may be vulnerable. You can now gain access from underneath. |
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Hotpoint/Creda |
If there is a rattling sound when you move the drum backwards and forwards it could possibly be one of the top springs have snapped, this would also cause the pulley to rub on the back of the cabinet when washing, which would then make a scraping noise as well. Normally you can bend the end of the broken spring and it will be as good as new, or you can opt for one of the up graded versions which are far stronger but you will have to buy from a stockiest |
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The most common cause for any leak on a washing machine is a hole in the door seal, just because you cannot see one on first inspection does not mean there is not one there. Check in all the folds and creases or along the edges where it bends, these are the usual places because they are points where items rub it i.e. zippers on jeans ect. |
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This problem is rare but has caused a lot of concern, and rightly so. The reason the door has opened is most likely caused by the machine going into spin while the load is out of balance, this makes the drum lurch upward, which also causes it to jump out of its suspension mountings, but during its erratic motion it hits the door bowl from the inside with enough force to break the door catch mechanism and push the door open. Items to be replaced will probably be door trim, interlock, suspension, timer and/or module. All parts available HERE (Check motor for tacho fault). |
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This would only happen if the inner drum was prevented from turning, which is normally caused by an item of clothing getting caught between the inner drum and the container. Even if the drum feels free now there is something there that shouldn't be, and must be located and removed or the same problem will occur again. |
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Hotpoint/Creda |
If the door release lever is intermittent it could be the latch fitment on the door trim has broken. To test it, with the door open operate the lever and see if the white latch plate comes away from the door trim (the screws will be in place but the plate will move) if this is the case a new door trim is needed if not it could be the pecker on top of the motor has come loose. |
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Washer Drier |
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For the machine to keep filling it would indicate that there is a siphoning problem. Check the outlet hose is not lower than the drum or if the problem only happens after the first pump out it would indicate the end of the outlet hose is lower than the drum or there is no air break around the outlet hose. (The stand pipe should be larger in diameter than the hose from the machine). |
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The problem here is the pressure switch is not operating, this can have a number of causes, either the switch is faulty, there is a hole in the pressure pipe or it has come off, or the most common reason is the pressure chamber is blocked. To check the switch you have to blow into it and listen for one or more clicks, if you hear them it's fine, a close inspection of the hose should tell if it is OK or not, whereas the chamber has to be removed and washed out to clear it. If it was screwed on then it will go back in the same position but if it was held on by a clip or glued in place then make a note of the hoses location because if it were put back wrongly positioned you could have more water in the drum than needed resulting in a flood. |
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Check the heater connections or thermostat also the connections on the timer, (here you are looking for a burnt out terminal or wire). The machine would have stopped in heat pause, and is waiting for the water to reach the correct temperature before advancing on. If you have an 'Economy' button on your machine, you could find that by pressing that the machine carries on working OK. On some Machines the Economy button cuts out the heater. However this will not work if there is a terminal fault on the timer, neither should it be used as a long term remedy because you will be doing cold washes all the time. |
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| Grit on my washing
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The small pieces of what look and feel like grit, are in fact lime scale that has formed on the other side of the drum and the inside of the container, you will also get quite a lot on the heater element as well. The reason you are getting it on your washing now would be that the machine has recently had a violent banning session i.e. an out off balance load which made the drum bang from side to side, this jarred free some of the lime scale and it later appeared on your washing as grit. Put the machine on a service wash (a hot wash with powder but no clothes in it) and let it go right through the cycle to the end, this should remove most of the residue from inside the drum. (You may find it necessary to clean the filter or sump hose if there was a lot of lime scale present.) |
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| My Machine wont rinse | If the machine stops on the rinse cycle every time, it would indicate that the cold valve is faulty or your cold water supply is not getting through to the machine. Check the cold tap and hose first by turning off the tap and disconnecting the hose from the machine, hold it over the sink or bucket and turn the tap on just a fraction to start with to see if water is getting through, if it is then open it up a bit more to make sure it is flowing freely, if that is OK then replace it and check the solenoid on the valve. Washer Dryers have a triple valve on the cold side, one is for the wash and rinse one for the fabric conditioner and one for the condenser. Before you interchange any wires or solenoids first find which one goes to the condenser, and leave that one alone. Now change the wires between the other two solenoids and select a rinse cycle to test it , this will tell you if it is the solenoid or not, it is not a repair, you will need a new valve or at least a new solenoid. Make sure the power to the machine is turned off before attempting any repair. |
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Sometimes the machine will not empty
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If the sump, filter and associated pipes are free from congestion and blockages the other reason would be the pump. Although it may run perfectly some times, the new generation of pumps are prone to staling, unlike the old type that ran for ever. If the pump is beginning to sound noisy it could be the inner bearing (such as it is) don't try to replace it they are not replaceable, change the pump, because once they start playing up you will have to change it in the end anyway. |
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The most common cause for this is the pressure chamber being blocked, or the pressure switch not resetting, either way the machine thinks it still has water in it and will not spin. An easy way to check is to remove the hose connected to the pressure switch and listen for a click, this will happen the instant the hose is removed so be aware, if you hear a click it means the switch has reset so the chamber is blocked but if there is no sound then either you missed it or the switch is at fault. To test the switch you may have to remove it because you will need to blow into it and listen for one or more clicks as the different levels set. Be aware that some of the older machines have multi level switches, whilst the newer ones only have a single level. |
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There is an item of clothing wedged between the inner and outer drum, possibly a handkerchief. The easiest way to get at it would be by removing the heater, although this could also be the most costly, if you can't refit it you will need a new one. So the safest way would be through either the front or back plate, unless you are unlucky and have a machine were the tub splits in the center. |
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The problem is the Tacho Generator on the motor is faulty or come off, some times the screw holding it on has just come undone and it has fallen off or the outer casing has come adrift. With the older Hotpoint motors you can refit the Tacho but on the newer ones you will probably need a new motor. |
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This is normally caused by the internal ducts of the condenser getting clogged with fluff from previous drying cycles. The only really effective solution here is to remove the condenser and properly clean it out, making sure all the little water holes are free from fluff and unclogged. The other cause is if you have a faulty solenoid valve or water inlet restriction, this would prevent the condenser function on the dryer from working. |
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It could be the pressure chamber is blocked, if so you will probably notice more water in the machine and the cloths coming out wetter than usual. Do not try blowing down the pipe leading to it, this may give a short term solution but it will need to be removed and cleaned out thoroughly |
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The most common cause for any leak on a washing machine or washer drier is a hole in the door seal, just because you cannot see one on first inspection does not mean there is not one there. Check in all the folds and creases or along the edges where it bends, these are the usual places because they are points where items rub it i.e. zippers on jeans ect. Unlike the normal washing machine a washer drier has an air inlet at the top front of the drum, this can cause a leak or a build up of condensation if the seal is faulty. |
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This would only happen if the inner drum was prevented from turning, which is normally caused by an item of clothing getting caught between the inner drum and the container. Even if the drum feels free now there is something there that shouldn't be, and must be located and removed or the same problem will occur again. |
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This problem is rare but has caused a lot of concern, and rightly so. The reason the door has opened is most likely caused by the machine going into spin while the load is out of balance, this makes the drum lurch upward, which also causes it to jump out of its suspension mountings, but during its erratic motion it hits the door bowl from the inside with enough force to break the door catch mechanism and push the door open. Items to be replaced will probably be door trim, interlock, suspension, timer and/or module. (Check motor for tacho fault). |
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Hotpoint/Creda |
If the door release lever is intermittent it could be the latch fitment on the door trim has broken. To test it, with the door open operate the lever and see if the white latch plate comes away from the door trim (the screws will be in place but the plate will move) if this is the case a new door trim is needed if not it could be the pecker on top of the motor has come loose. |
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Tumble Drier |
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The obvious things to look at are the thermostats and heaters but on some tumble driers a reverse timer has been fitted (allowing the drum to rotate in the opposite direction). Unlike the conventional timer this one cannot be operated by the user but is controlled by the main timer and when it is activated the heater is turned off. So if your machine has reverse tumble it could be that it is stuck in reverse. You will have to watch it for about 15 minutes or so to see if it revolves in the opposite direction, if not, it could be the main timer needs replacing. |
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Tumble Driers have induction motors that are either capacitor or relay start, so it is possible to wire them up the wrong way round, in which case the motor would go in the opposite direction. If there is a jockey pulley fitted and the motor was wired the wrong way the belt would slip under load and the drum would not revolve. |
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Scraping noise |
Depending on where the noise is coming from determines what you should be looking for. If the noise is at the rear then it could be the drum rubbing on the cabinet: the cabinet has been dented or the
rear bearing has worn, the other possibility is the fan on the motor is snagging on something, once again the cabinet could be dented. If the noise is from the front it could be dirt or grit on the edge of the front plate (where the bearing pads are) or the bearing pads may be worn. Some tumble driers have a tension pulleys that keep the belt taught, if the belt breaks these pulleys could rub on the motor shaft (so if the drum is not going round but you hear a scraping sound, it could be this) |
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Burning smell
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The most probable cause for this would be fluff on the heater element. All fabric lose fiber when washed or tumble dried, and it is this fiber that can work its way onto the heater, if the outlet hose or opening is blocked or restricted in some way, either by a build up of fluff or a kink in the hose. It is better to use a vacuum cleaner to remove any fluff around the heater element rather than a brush, also vacuum the inside of the cabinet as this will almost certainly have a build up of fluff also. Do not be surprised to smell burning directly after cleaning the element, this is normal, it is just a residue of small particles that have resettled on the element and they will burn off in no time. |
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Spin Drier |
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Still water in spin Dryer |
This only applies to spin dryers that pump out (have an out let hose) as opposed to a spout on the side of the tub. Either there is a blockage in the outlet pipe or the pump is not functioning properly. As these machines very rarely get blockages the odds are the pump is at fault. Turn the machine upside down and remove the base, the pump will be attached to the motor and driven by a thin belt, if this belt is in good condition then it would probably be the pump itself, sometimes the impellor comes adrift from the pulley spindle so it appears to be turning OK but in fact only the pulley is turning. Replace the pump (don't mess about trying to repair it, in the long run it is cheaper to replace it.) |
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The usual cause for this is the load being uneven or poorly distributed, make sure the heavy items are at the bottom i.e. towels woolens or any item that holds water. The mechanical reasons could be that the rubber mountings are weak or broken. If the tub looks really off centre this could be the reason, (no drum looks perfectly central when viewed from the top so don't worry if it is a bit lopsided) |
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The brake is not being activated, which could mean the main spring has snapped (they normally work with one end on a pivot pin and the other end connected to a strong spring) or you may just have to adjust the brake cable. |
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Condenser Dryer |
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A majority of condenser dryers have a reverse timer fitted refer to Tumble Dryer |
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The most common reason for this is that the condenser filter is blocked and needs to be cleaned, usually by placing it under a running tap or hose. Another cause would be if the appliance were in a confined space such as a small cupboard with the door closed (there would not be sufficient air flow to allow the condenser system to work properly) In this case just leave the cupboard door open. |
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(Hotpoint Manual no 5405770) |
The motor on the Hotpoint TDC30 is held in place by two screws securing the mounting to the under side of the cabinet. However it is also linked to other components via the impellor and shaft.
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No drum action
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If you can hear the motor turning but the drum is not then it is quite likely that the belt has broken. This is not a simple job to replace, as on most condenser dryers it requires the removal of at least part of the cabinet and sometimes even the motor or drum, so it would be better left to an engineer. |
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Dishwasher |
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Dishwasher stops/Not hot
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Dishwashers tend to have different thermostats for different temperature settings, therefore it could work fine on a low setting but stick on a higher setting, they are also located in different places, they could be Touching the heater, Under the cabinet or Inside the door shell. However if the heater does not come on at all, it could be the heater itself or a wiring connection. Check from the heater back up to the timer. Any electrical testing should always be done with the aid of a Megger or equivalent test meter and never with the appliance connected to the main power supply. |
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Indicator arm broken
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The early Bosch dishwashers (which were adapted and used by a number of other manufacturers, Hotpoint for one) had a visual indicator that moved within a display area on the fascia panel of the door. This indicator moved as the control knob revolved because of the gear mesh on the arm which located into teeth on the knob. The final teeth on the knob are missing so when it has revolved180 degrees the indicator is pulled back to its start position by way of a spring. If this spring breaks the indicator will remain at which ever end it broke at. The machine will still function perfectly well, but you will not know what part of the cycle it is in. |
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One reason a dishwasher fails to clean adequately is the blockage of some of the holes in the spray arms, these must be kept clear from pips and pieces of corn ect which manage to get past the filters. The holes are not just to get the dishes wet but also to propel the arms around so they spray water over the entire contents of the cabinet. Blockages in the supply line would also affect the water pressure, and some machines are fitted with Water Turbines and High Pressure Sensors; these machines would show error code indications if there were water flow problems. The quality of washing can also be affected by the cleanliness of the wash water, and on a number of dishwashers a Turbidity Sensor was installed to detect this problem, but it was a bit self defeating in that after continual use the powder used in dishwashers being rather abrasive tended to mist over the lens, which then gave off a false reading, causing the machine to either wash for longer than needed or empty the water and refill with clean, which was exactly what the sensor was installed to eliminate. If there is a fault in the heating circuit, either with the heater or related thermostats/thermistors and the water never reaches the required heat, this would result in poor wash results as would inferior washing powder or poor distribution of load. |
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Obviously there is an electrical fault, and the most common place for one in a Dishwasher is inside the door casing, the switches sometimes over heat at the terminals, or the rinse aid compartment leaks all over the wires that run underneath it causing the insulation to become less than adequate, but by far the most common of all is the ribbon cable that runs from the door controls under the door and into the base of the dishwasher. The constant opening of the door causes it to bend backwards and forwards as it passes under the door panel, this bending will and does break some of the wires which can cause a number of different faults, if it chafes on the cabinet it will blow the fuse. |
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Electric Cooker |
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The temperature in an electric oven does fluctuate a bit, and although normally very reliable there are a number of points that would make this fluctuation even greater, the obvious one is the oven thermostat and controls but it can also be affected by the fitting of the door. If the door seal is worn or badly fitted it should be replaced also check that the door hinges are locating correctly (this may sound silly but you can still open and close the oven door even if they are not fitting properly or are loose.) The other thing to check is the striker pin or latching mechanism on the door latch, make sure it is tight and not holding the door out too far which would allow hot air to escape from the oven. |
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The Hob works but I can't get the oven to come on |
The timer has been activated, possibly when the controls were cleaned. There are so many types of timers used that it would not be possible to go through every one, but if you have the instruction booklet, that will tell you how to turn it off. Normally it is just a case of pressing a button or turning a control knob |
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The vent pipe in the oven has been covered or blocked, so the excess moisture and fumes have not been allowed to escape, they have instead stuck to the inside lining of the oven. Over time they have baked on and formed a crust which drops onto your cooking when it gets very hot. This vent pipe must be clear for the oven to work properly. You may also get excessive vapor or steam from the oven when you open the door. |
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The banging you can hear is the inside panels expanding with the heat, some times cheap metal dishes you use to cook in can have the same effect. Unfortunately I have not found a sustainable cure for this problem except to replace the item which is distorting with the heat, whether it is the lining or the cooking dish. (If the oven is under a year old call in the manufacturer and get them to replace it) |
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All electric ovens have a vent pipe inside which allows the fumes and excessive moisture to escape, if this vent pipe is too close to the wall, the escaping moisture stick to it and produce a brown stain which in some instances look like a burn or scorch mark. Do not cover this pipe opening, instead either move the cooker away from the wall slightly or place some heat resistant lining on the wall (Baking foil works). |
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Electric Hob |
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It takes much too long to boil a saucepan |
A hob element is perfectly flat and therefore the saucepans base must also be perfectly flat for the heat to cover the largest surface area. If you have just converted to an electric hob you could find your old saucepans are no longer any good because they may be slightly bowed on the base. If the pans are all OK then it could possibly be the hot plate or the control, but because you are getting some heat there is no easy way to determine which component needs replacing. (Call an engineer give them the headache) or replace both parts |
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My grill isn't working |
Possible causes are the grill element, selector switch or if you have an oven which incorporates a grill as well it could be the door switch. To test any of these items you would need a Megger or some other form of electrical test equipment. Never try working on any appliance still connected to the mains, if the cooker is hard wired into a wall socket turn the mains off because unlike a Washing Machine, cookers draw more current and so use a 30Amp fuse. If you touch a live wire it will not blow the fuse, just you. |
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Refrigeration |
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This is almost certainly caused by the hole inside at the rear of the fridge being blocked. This hole is situated at the bottom of the gully and lets the water from the evaporator run through to the dissipater at the back when the unit goes into defrost. To clean it out use a piece of wire (an old coat hanger) will do fine, it will only go in about 5 to 8 mm if the hole goes from front to back so don't force it in any further because when you hit a restriction it will be the down pipe. However if the hole goes down towards the base of the fridge then it will travel considerably farther. What is causing the blockage is slime or a small piece of fibber/paper which stuck to evaporator when it was freezing. Insert the wire and drag it out, you may need to do this several times to clear the blockage. To test if it is clear, empty a small amount of water into the gully and see if it flows away. (Remember the water ends up in the Dissipater on top of the compressor, so don't overdo the testing or it will overflow). |
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There is a puddle of water under my freezer |
The most likely cause for this is the insulation in the freezer cabinet has broken down,. feel under the base of the freezer and if you can feel a large block of ice (or any ice at all) it will indicate that this is the problem. Sorry but there is no repair for this fault and you will have to buy a new freezer. |
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The fridge is not working but my freezer is |
The most likely cause for this is an ice blockage, and the easy way to tell is if you open the freezer door but keep the fridge door closed you should hear the motor running, if so the easy fix is just to turn the whole thing off for about 3 days and it will clear itself. (Hopefully you have a good friend that will store your frozen produce for a couple of days) If however the motor is not running then you will have to replace the thermistors, they are located behind the back panel in the freezer compartment. (these units do not have thermostats). |
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The first thing to check is the power supply. You could have an open circuit on the thermostat or the PTC may be open circuit or have a bad connection. It may just be the ambient temperature is too low (That is the outside temperature is lower than the setting on the thermostat) or it may be the compressor is faulty. |
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It could be that the compressor is seized, or you may have a blockage in the system. The PTC (Positive Temperature Coefficient) which is used as a start device for the compressor, may be faulty or have a bad connection, it may be the PTC is too hot in which case just turn it off for about 15 minutes to cool down and try again. |
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Is the door closing properly? You could have an intermittent blockage in the system, a faulty thermostat or if it is a larder fridge it could just be its normal operation. |
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